Let the sneezing begin!

Yup. It has Sprung.

Sawdust created by my foray into high level woodwork does not help.

Almost done making a drawer, from scratch, for the space above the new fridge. This is my first time making a drawer. Not sure how, but the parts are almost square to each other. I will deploy some kind of caulking for the 1/4" gaps. In my haste to make purchases before the hardware store closed, ended up with tiny brad nails. Inserting these with a hammer proved to be time consuming.

The drawer face is intended to compliment the OEM materials. Went crazy with money and bought a 3.5' length of 1/2"x5" Douglas Fir. The box is old plywood scraps. It will be painted or lined. (can I gold plate it?). Front grain is tighter than the surrounding Pinto-Wagon-like "wood grain", but whatever. The front will be stained, possibly with beer. Latch to be determined. Was going to steal the latch from the Dometic fridge door but that seems a waste.

All this took some time. But. Wasn't going to leave town on the Easter long weekend, so I took on the project.

My first thought on filling the drawer was "tools". We'll see. Maybe I'll leave it empty and when gathered with like minded Westy folks, just open and close it verbally speculating with "what should I put in here?" and gloating about how much space I have traveling as a single person.

Picked up my bass trombone for the first time in 2 months. This time off showed in the form of a weak embouchure and sketchy articulation. And I want to take this audition? Ha! (well I have to actually APPLY first.  ;)

Almost there.

Yup. I think "Westfurbia" is going on the stove front plate.  ;)

All this , started from a dim oil light bulb. Likely cause: hinky ground wire from the "Dynamic Oil Pressure"   "L" board. Regardless, the job needed to be done as did cleaning up the wiring to the "L" board. After my engine swap was running, parts like the "L" board got added so things like wiring, morphed.

As do other enthusiasts, I tend to be in the dash more often than not. Every time the 14 pin connector is pulled off, pushed on, the copper traces on the circuit "board" ribbon risk getting messed up. A more suitable connector(s) with longer leads, should help this.

Am now at the stage where I can actually clean up and start putting tools away. In no particular order, work done:

• TruckFridge install, Dometic front adapted etc.
• wiring to/from fridge
• "fish" new 110VAC wiring, GFCI socket install, new socket in cupboard
• cap LP line, minor cupboard repair, insulation mod
• pop top repair, clean, paint (3 coats)
• new pop top canvas 
• engine wiring harness clean up
• trouble shoot no start. ECU/FP relay rewire, new generic relays
• ECU/FP/HO2S relay box re position
• back up light install; run wire, relay install, SS bracket fabrication
• rear bumper body bracket bolt hole re thread
• new 12V circuit on BU light relay wire
• new exhaust; manifold to tail pipe + newly designed and fabbed brackets
• instrument cluster repair
• "L board repair (loose pins). Soldered new wires, cleaned up wiring to it
• stove face repaint
• luggage rack damage (badly cracked) repair, repaint, CB antenna removal
• luggage rack paint (3 coats at least)
• pop top, luggage rack seals
• mouse clean up 
• wire repair due to mice (dome light)
• 3rd aux. battery (deep cycle) at rear seat, isolator in engine bay
• rerouted various supply wires from starter + post
• body paint repaint where old top seals rubbed
• general wiring clean up at dash
• new fuel hoses
• #2 aux. battery replacement, added fuse to wire from starter, cleaned up previous wiring
• brake fluid flush
• brake light switch wire repair, switch replacement
• edit: oh ya. And ....  rear seat re-foam and reupholster.

I"m sure there's more. As I wrote the list, more stuff was recalled.

This all happened over the last 2 months or so. For point of reference, I put in a lot of 6 hour days on average. Not every day, but for the last while, nearly every day was a Vanagon work day.

All very interesting this instrument cluster stuff.

I have done some work on clusters so was somewhat prepared going into this work in progress  Soldering the wires onto each copper trace worked out, but there was some "hacking" around getting it back on the cluster.

The clip (my term) that the 14 contact connector fits into, had to be cleared of some material to slip over the added thickness due to solder joints and glue. It fits, but as I worked on it (VERY carefully) I noticed the glue was breaking free allowing the traces to lift a little so I dded more "Goop"  It's curing under a work light as I write. Hopefully none of the Goop has gotten between the cluster and clip. That could make ribbon removal impossible.

As for the connector, I'd tossed all my PC stuff years ago, so had no DB type cables to play with. RP Electronics has this plug but no socket. Glad I called and asked! So back to good old Pico. Ended up buying 2 of these. The #18 isn't that much bigger than the #20 wires I soldered to the cluster traces, and dimensionally, the parts aren't that big. Sure, there isn't one easy connector, but, they're sturdy and should last a life time.

The bottom line though, as was inferred to me by a Vanagon friend, is that the cluster ribbon etc. can only be repaired so many times. The average DIY type enthusiast will see himself removing and installing the cluster at least a few times. This might well be more than VW ever intended Add to that the age of the parts, and, well, you know.   ;)  

My repair should work but I now know that a more permanent repair (i.e. a custom harness etc. or a modified more modern cluster), is the ticket.

So the day started out quite well. Got some tape up along the face of the canvas staple strips (though I seated the staples best I could, they feel a little rough and I don't want that rubbing on canvas), applied the Westfalia sticker (looks nice!) picked up parts, replaced "forward" brake light switch, soldered in a fuse to the #8 wire from starter battery to Aux. #1 battery, redid some wire details in that area, but then.....

Put the cluster back on, dim oil light. Those silly copper traces on the ribbon "board" don't stand up to repeated removal-installation of the 14 pin connector. I suspect a trace is shorting or not connecting well; at least 2 look very abused.

The fix is going to be like this one or similar to it. Basically hardwire a new connector to replace the OEM connectors.

Very frustrating though. Almost had the van done, then this. Sheesh!   ;)

It's times like this when I feel like dumping these rigs and getting  a Sportsmobile. Ha ha. Yes. I'll just go out and buy a $port$mobile.

Ha ha.

Huh. For a moment there, thought I'd deleted this blog!

Too many email addresses, etc. Am paring down my digital existence. To that end, closed my Facebook account. Last time I did that, I didn't provide a "heads up" and some thought I'd de-friended them. This time I did!

Finally fired up my new Truckfridge TF49 DC model. REAL happy to see it work and cool down so fast! Granted I don't live in a remote quiet location, but the fridge is a lot quieter than anticipated. Even though I'm now tied to a battery, having a fridge that works when you turn it on, w/o the usual Dometic hassle, and lack of cooling above 85º F ambient, will never get old.

Almost done all my Westy work though a failed brake switch (along with a wire that failed just like the wire on other switch) had me searching for the fault. The chances of both those faults happening "at once" are remote. The other brake switch must've been no-op for some time. I gotta wonder if the brake bulbs draw more than those wire terminals can handle.

Re-routed the new back up light and future 12V outlet feed from the starter post (starter battery) to the new aux. group 27 at the isolator post. I doubt I'll have that much need for a 12V outlet back there, but it will be useful for an engine trouble light, bike pump.

As with the last overhaul of this van, there's been lots of time and relatively lots of $ spent. At this point, I can't think of one major part (or most minor parts for that matter) that hasn't been repaired, renewed or replaced.

On another completely different note, finally read my American Federation of Musicians paper today. Noted a Bass Trombone opening in the Spokane Symphony. Taking the audition would mean a fair amount of woodshedding starting, uh, now, as I've already been away from the horn for 2 + months.

We'll see.

I'm a lucky guy!

Some good weather allowed me to finish the canvas install. .... at 9:00 PM last night! All in all, it turned out ok.   (note; don't use black dum dum. See pic. See why?)

Today before delving back into my '81, spent some time at KMS tools then went to White & Peter to pick up a pint "Uno" LH5V (Slate Blue) for my '88. This "Uno" brand of BASF is their higher end paint. The chip looked almost identical. Like a WAY closer match than the Limco Supreme. Was going to get the slider door cover scanned but the girls there brought out this chip and I was sold. I'm really hoping it isn't darker like the Limco Supreme "Slate Blue" was. The Limco was mixed using the factory code as was the Uno. We'll see.

Yesterday, started with another application of staples then the metal strip install. Since the rear portion was shorter than my old canvas, I started at the rear strip then worked forward. An awl really helped. IIRC, the centre "cut" on the new canvas lined up closely to the centre screw.

The forward vertical seam at driver side looked like it would end up short of the old seam mark. I pulled (gently) on canvas as I went along screwing. IIRC this seam indeed ended up short of the mark I made on the body. Regardless, I had to make a small awkward fold (nibbled corner at 3 points) to compensate for extra fabric. The canvas looks "ok" but the front portion is "looser" than the sides which are nice and tight. Regardless of my gentle pulling, I have to wonder if the front isn't a little too long. This is one thing I didn't measure against my old canvas.

What helped me with install. This was for a "German" canvas:

- at rear, supported canvas bottom out of the way when stapling. Sounds "trailer park" but I used Gorilla duct tape to hold bottom hem to poptop.

- tack stapled short sections (every 1'  ?) horizontally at hem, then stapled strip. This was made easier since I marked where old hem was.

- heated strips (it's still a little cold here)

- for me, an electric "Sure Shot" stapler helped but was just as useless when the plastic strips were cold. Lot's of time wasted pulling staples. Maybe chisel point  staples would've helped?

- removed all crap staples. Thought they might rub or tear fabric.

- marked old tent position relative to body and wood frame and hem of old tent to wood frame.

- Copied corner notches from old canvas to piece of paper. Used as general reference.

- when transferring marks to new canvas, used Gorilla tape to "mark" new canvas. It didn't leave behind any glue.

- awl to start hole in lower hem and line up to screw hole

- didn't buy a new one, but a head lamp might really help when working in rear

The lip of new flat seal still doesn't seat flat against the luggage rack. Not sure why. Adjusted the top latch which helped seat the top lower at front.

Today quality time was spent resealing the bolts for the top latch and pop top arms, installing headliner, new hatch struts (ya!)

Sure is nice having a freshly painted top et al.

Just need to get one terminal crimped on and new battery + fridge should be up and running.

I'm sure there's lots of other stuff I've done. Just can't recall it all right now!

New group 27 deep cycle. Isolator mounted in engine bay. Wood divider left low to help ventilation, but it may be too low. It is really well braced though.

Quick and dirty shot right after I finished.

Lucky me.

Some sun showed up today. Managed to get the last row of staples in on my new canvas just before the "spitting" of rain turned into actual rain.

Things are lining up well. Canvas bottom looks and feels like it will fit nicely under the strips and make for a fairly taught tent. But..... the front of the canvas was a bit long. Could be the way I did things? Started at the middle of each long part then worked toward front then rear corners. The forward corner seams matched very closely to the marks I made from the old but tight canvas but the front was long. I tucked a bit at each forward corner but there may be a wrinkle or two. Not happy with that but maybe installation of bottom strips will sort things out.

Tip: if it's cold out, heat the vinyl strips. Bentley mentions heating them in warm or hot water prior to install. The weather was warm but when it got colder, staples started bending. Judicious use of my heat gun on each strip as I went along made an enormous difference. It might be easy to melt them so.... Bent staples is a major PITA. Not only do you have to remove them, if they poked into the wrong part of fabric, well, not cool. There is one tiny spot that may need a spot of fabric glue. We'll see.

Tip: YMMV! As per the previous install, I tacked the fabric to wood as I worked along with the strips. Like I'd tack ahead about 1' then do the strip, etc. Since I had marked where the old fabric hem was, I lined new hem to that. (I had carefully measured old against new and they are nearly identical). After a fashion, I started putting my tacks in horizontally along the black hem which is thicker. My thinking being that when the tent came to rest before strip install, there would be less chance of it ripping as opposed to it pulling on a vertical staple.

Will add wider staples before installing the bottom strip, but so far so good it seems. Should turn out ok.